Paths of Peneda – Independent
Explore one of the most scenic yet least ‘discovered’ areas of western Europe. This is a mountainous landscape of granite and water. Quaint historic villages with myriad espigueiros (traditional granaries), fine old bridges crossing gushing rivers, and an endless network of stone-slabbed footpaths all bear witness to a long history of habitation and farming.
The route is hilly, climbing into high, wild places with extensive mountain views, while a peppering of interesting fortresses along the way speak of a wealthier and more fiercely contested past.
En route, tuck into simple, rustic cuisine that is based firmly on local produce and culinary tradition.
Duration: 5 or 8 days
Itinerary
Arcos, with cobbled streets and ornate churches, is picturesquely set on the banks of the River Vez. Charming 4-star hotel overlooking the River Vez.
Arcos is a small town spanning the River Vez, with a modest historic centre. In 1141 it played a key role in the establishment of the Kingdom of Portugal. There are a few interesting churches and chapels, as well as shops to peruse. Our recommended hotel has a riverside garden, terrace, sauna, hot tub and indoor pool. It also hires out bicycles and canoes for a peaceful paddle along the river.
Charming hotel overlooking the River Vez
Paths through forest, pasture and scrub lead up to the megalithic monuments at Mezio, ‘gateway’ to the Peneda National Park (alternative starting point), from where ancient tracks and paths lead down to the delightful village of Soajo and your friendly guesthouse accommodation. Arcos-Soajo (13.8 miles, 6-7 hrs); Mezio-Soajo (4 miles, 2 hrs).
This medieval village is a maze of pedestrian, granite-paved lanes with granite walls, granite cottages and the region’s distinctive espigueiros (granite grain stores). Many of the friendly villagers still wear traditional black skirts and headscarves. Take a taxi to the sleepy village of Lindoso, situated above a vast dam on the River Lima. It boasts the best castle in the region and the finest collection of espigueiros.
Friendly guest house in heart of picturesque village
Explore Soajo’s quaint alleys, admire espigueiros (granite grain stores) and walk through terraces and valleys around the village (3.4 miles, 2 hours). Alternatively, transfer (taxi) to old Lindoso with its castle and 53 espigueiros, before crossing the Alto (high) Lindoso Dam and following the Lima Valley to an ancient bridge and natural pools below Soajo (7.1 miles, 4 hours).
This is the only national park in Portugal. The hard, impermeable granite terrain has sculpted the countryside, the repeated expansion and contraction of water in the rocks leaving outcrops, granite stacks and large boulders scattered across plateaux, forested slopes and deep valleys. Rain runs off quickly, often cascading down footpaths from the high serra to the fast, clear rivers below.
Friendly guest house in heart of picturesque village
Increasingly scenic ancient trails lead up to the village of Adrão, then across a ridge (views!) before descending into the Peneda Valley and following the pilgrimage path to the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora da Peneda (9.8 miles, 5-6 hrs). Comfortable 3-star accommodation.
The tiny village of Peneda is dominated by the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora, built to celebrate a legendary appearance of the Virgin Mary and backed by an impressive granite massif. In the first week of September, thousands of pilgrims flock here from the region and neighbouring Galicia in Spain.
Quiet, comfortable hotel in idyllic setting
Follow gentle paths up the wooded Peneda Valley before climbing over the high serra to descend to the frontier settlement of Castro Laboreiro (9.6 miles, 5-6 hrs). Alternatively – for those with strong knees! – spend the morning exploring the beautiful and dramatic granite highlands above Peneda (6 miles, 3-4 hrs) before transferring by road (taxi) to Lamas de Mouro to complete your onward route over the high serra to Castro Laboreiro (4.3 miles, 2.5-3 hours). Family-run 3-star hotel with wonderful views.
This modest town is set in a splendid landscape of knobbly granite mountains and valleys. The Neolithic necropolis on the plateau to the north-east attests to the long human occupation of this area. Admire the many Roman and Medieval bridges on optional walks around the town, as well as the magnificently situated 13th century castle. The small ethnographic museum brings to life the history of the region.
Family-run hotel with wonderful views
Alternative options to explore the splendid landscapes around Castro Laboreiro: rocky outcrops, moorland and valleys, megalithic monuments, small granite villages, ancient bridges and 13C castle (1.6, 3.2, 7.3, 8.6 or 11.1 miles! 1.5-6.5 hours).
Family-run hotel with wonderful views
Old paths link granite villages close to the Spanish border, before an open ridge and the well-graded descent with wide views of the Minho Valley and distant Galicia... and Melgaço, with its castle, vineyards and thermal springs ... (13.5 miles, 6 hours - or taxi to a later starting point: 9 miles, 4 hours). Friendly guesthouse accommodation.
Melgaco is set near the banks of the River Minho, which forms the northern border between Portugal and Spain. During medieval times it was one of the country’s most important border towns. Visit the remains of the castle, tower and town walls, and make sure to fit in a wine tasting of the local vinho verde – Melgaco is one of the main centres of wine production in the area.
Friendly, family-run guest house
Trip Planner
Walking & Terrain
Walking: Easy to Challenging. The walk lengths vary from 2 hours to a maximum of 7 hours. Hours of walking, which may vary from individual to individual, means hours of actual walking and does not include stops for lunch, sightseeing, rests or siestas.
Terrain: The route follows cobbled, granite pilgrim paths, gravel roads, forest tracks and ways across open mountains and along river banks. There are a few rocky and steep sections of path, so good firm walking boots with ankle support are recommended and so too are walking poles.
All ATG trips include facilities and options so that you can arrange to walk as much or as little as you like – or not at all - and your Route Manager will be able to advise you on public transport or taxi options.
Walking & Terrain
Walking: Easy to Challenging. The walk lengths vary from 2 hours to a maximum of 7 hours. Hours of walking, which may vary from individual to individual, means hours of actual walking and does not include stops for lunch, sightseeing, rests or siestas.
Terrain: The route follows cobbled, granite pilgrim paths, gravel roads, forest tracks and ways across open mountains and along river banks. There are a few rocky and steep sections of path, so good firm walking boots with ankle support are recommended and so too are walking poles.
All ATG trips include facilities and options so that you can arrange to walk as much or as little as you like – or not at all - and your Route Manager will be able to advise you on public transport or taxi options.
Additional activities available locally
This is a wonderful area offering additional local experiences - some can be booked to fit in with the itinerary, whilst for others you may wish to customise your trip to have an extra leisurely day or two to enjoy.
Additional activities are paid for locally and can be booked via your Route Manager who will contact you 2 weeks prior to departure.
Kayak tour at Bravaes (8km from Arcos), 50€/person for 2h30 (minim 2 people)
Additional walking is available from Arcos and your Route Manager can advise.
Additional activities in Peneda include:
Fishing, bouldering + climbing (prices vary)
There is also a spa and massage available in Peneda (100m from the hotel)
River canyoning is available on the free day in Castro Laboreiro, 40€/person for 2h30 (min 2 people)
Your Personal ATG Route Manager
I started to work with ATG in 2021, as the route manager of Paths of Peneda. In 2024 we opened our second route in this amazing area, Alto Minho High Route! Expect a treasure trove of stunning landscapes, lush forests, majestic waterfalls, crystal-clear streams, breathtaking viewpoints, biodiversity and deep cultural heritage.
“Maria (Route Manager) has a wonderful ability to tailor the route to one’s needs, offering many alternatives to suit our personal fitness level.”
“Tita (Route Manager) is wonderful, perhaps the best trail manager that we have met.”
“Our route manager was so friendly and helpful- she really did go the extra mile to help make the trip very enjoyable”
“Excellent communication and support; very pleasant and engaged. Maria Tita (Route Manager) is an outstanding representative of ATG Oxford; very responsive and available.”
Route Book
The ATG Route Book is a detailed, day-to-day guide. The book anticipates your needs with easy-to-follow instructions, maps, plans and other information that will guide you to discover the best that the area has to offer and is the key to the success of an independent holiday with us.
Walking App
Your Route Manager can provide you with a link to download an app to your smartphone. This app provides the GPS track for your route on your phone. You can use this digital support to find your position and navigate the route, even without an internet connection or mobile phone reception.
Accommodation & Meals
You can expect each hotel to be one of the most characteristic, comfortable and best located for travellers on foot, with the character and sometimes the standard varying from place to place. In more remote areas hotels may be of a generally lower standard in relation to their ‘star ratings’. Much of this itinerary is ‘off the beaten tourist track’ so expect something different on occasions – and we think you may be delighted!
Single travellers are accommodated in double rooms for single occupancy for a supplemental charge.
Breakfast is included and there are suggestions in the Route Book about where to buy provisions for a picnic lunch, as well as restaurant recommendations. Dining options often include a choice of restaurants that can be pre-booked for you by your Route Manager.
Food & Wine
Expect hearty dishes in this mountainous area of Portugal. Meat is the main feature on most menus, from slabs of tender steak from the local long-horned cattle to veal, lamb and goat. There are always a couple of fish options too, usually cod, which is a staple Portuguese cuisine. The local wine is a the fresh and fragrant Vinho Verde, or ‘green wine’. The Route Book contains a section on the cuisine and wines of the region, and a list of recommended restaurants en route. The Route Manager will be pleased to help you with any queries, requests or advice.
History
Despite the apparent challenges offered to human habitation here, you will see evidence of a continuous occupation from the Stone Age onwards, and follow ancient paths trodden by Celts, Romans, Goths, Moors, Christian pilgrims and more recent transhumant populations, some still following traditional patterns of seasonal migration. The Route Book provides a detailed account of the history of the Alto Minho region.
Flora & Fauna
The wide variety of microclimates here support a rich diversity of vegetation, from heathers and gorse on the serras, down to oak forests in the lower areas. Long-horned Cachena cattle roam everywhere, as do the Garrano ponies, an ancient breed that share characteristics with the Dartmoor pony. Less likely to be seen is the rare Iberian wolf. Our Route Book provides further detail while apps such as ‘LeafSnap’, ‘Flora Incognita’, ‘ChirpOMatic’ and child-friendly ‘Seek by iNaturalist’ can identify the flora and fauna en route.
Travel Arrangements
Travel arrangements, including flights, for ATG Independent Footloose trips should be made independently.
Outward travel to Arcos de Valdevez: There are buses from Porto airport to Arcos de Valdevez (journey time approximately 1.5 to 2 hours) or you can catch a taxi if the bus times do not work with your flight arrival time (taxis can be pre-booked via the office).
Return travel from Castro Laboreiro: From Melgaço, we recommend arranging a taxi transfer back to Porto airport (your Route Manager can help with return taxi bookings).
Trip Options & Prices
Overview
This 5 day independent walking tour in northern Portugal starts in the picturesque town of Arcos de Valdevez and includes 3 days of walking for those looking for a dedicated walking trip. A short break to Portugal offering excellent walking in the Peneda National Park.
Itinerary
Day 1: Arrive in Arcos de Valdevez
Day 2: Arcos de Valdevez to Soajo
Day 3: Soajo to Peneda
Day 4: Peneda to Castro Laboreiro
Day 5: Departure
Prices (per person)
Overview
This 8 day independent walking tour in northern Portugal is a more in-depth visit to the area with 4 days walking plus two optional ‘free day’ walks. The itinerary ends with a scenic walk to delightful Melgaço, with its castle, vineyards and thermal springs. A longer trip taking you to the northernmost town in Portugal.
Itinerary
Day 1: Arrive in Arcos de Valdevez
Day 2: Arcos de Valdevez to Soajo
Day 3: Soajo - free day
Day 4: Soajo to Peneda
Day 5: Peneda to Castro Laboreiro
Day 6: Castro Laboreiro - free day
Day 7: Castro Laboreiro to Melgaço
Day 8: Departure
Prices (per person)
Our Independent Footloose itineraries have the flexibility to be customised if you would like to spend more time in any of the places en route; perhaps to incorporate some of the add-ons available locally or just to create a more relaxed pace to your holiday.
If you wish to build your own itinerary please complete our customise form and our Sales team will provide you with a bespoke quote.
Frequently Asked Questions
On each route there is an ATG Route Manager, who is there to take care of all the practicalities and ensure the success of your trip. Route Managers have all been ATG-trained, speak English and the language of the country fluently, and live in the local area. Your Route Manager will make contact with you a couple of weeks prior to departure (usually by email) and will then meet you at the start of your trip and will be available during your trip to move your luggage from hotel to hotel, provide local information, make restaurant reservations and do everything possible to ensure that you derive maximum enjoyment from your holiday.
Please let us know about any dietary restrictions or allergies in advance so that our Route Manager can ensure that you are catered for during your holiday. Most dietary restrictions do not present a problem on our trips and the Route Manager can discuss your requirements in more detail with you at the start of your trip.
The walks are graded according to difficulty but you can walk as much or as little as you like.
Easy: walking along well-established paths and tracks with some short ascents/descents. These trips are suitable for most people who enjoy occasional exercise.
Easy to Moderate: walking along well-established paths and tracks. Occasional loose (gravel) surfaces. Ascents/descents up to 1 hour. These trips are suitable for most people who have a reasonable level of fitness.
Moderate: walking along a variety of paths and tracks. Occasional uneven areas. Ascents/descents 1-2 hours. These trips are suitable for those who have a reasonable to good level of fitness.
Moderate to Challenging: walking along varied paths and surfaces, occasionally challenging, with ascents/descents of 2-3 hours. These trips are suitable for more experienced walkers who have a good level of fitness.
If you are planning to take an Independent trip as a single traveller, we would ask you to consider the potential dangers of walking alone before making a booking and if necessary discuss this with our Sales team.
Single travellers will be booked into a double room which will carry a single occupancy supplement.
Flights are not included in the price of your ATG holiday and should be booked independently.
The trips in our Independent programme make ideal family holidays for those with children who are old enough (and keen enough!) to enjoy a walking holiday or young enough to be carried in a backpack.
You would need to consider costs for lunches (either a picnic style lunch or lunch in a café as you prefer) and evening meals. Where an evening meal is included at a hotel this is indicated on the trip page. For evening meals not included, the route book provides restaurant recommendations to suit a wide range of budgets. You would also need to factor in any entrance fees to museums, churches, galleries and other sightseeing costs, items of a personal nature, shopping expenditure and transport if you choose to not to walk on some days.
Tourist Tax
This tax is charged per guest per night and the rate is determined by the local council based on the star rating of the accommodation. The rate usually varies from €2 up to €5 per person per night, although the rate can be higher in major cities. This tax is not included in the price of your holiday but where applicable will be payable direct to your hotel in cash.
We are delighted to book extensions for you at either end of your trip. We only book hotels with which we have an established relationship and where we can ensure a high level of service and enjoyment. If you would like an extension hotel booking please indicate this during the booking process and we will contact you with pricing information.
ATG does not provide any form of insurance cover. However, it is a condition of booking that you have fully comprehensive insurance cover, including:
Cancellation/curtailment up to the cost of the holiday (preferably including flights)
Medical emergencies and repatriation
Travel delay / missed departure
Lost or stolen personal belongings
Personal liability
Legal expenses
Natural Disasters
Although most credit card companies offer travel insurance as something that is included when paying the balance with the card, it may be advisable to check that the cover offered is what you expect it to be. Very few companies include cancellation and curtailment or medical expenses. Whatever the insurance policy you have taken out, please read the documentation carefully. Please ensure also that you take it with you on your trip and refer to it in the case of any claim or emergency.
Yes, please click here for what to bring. A packing checklist is also included with your booking confirmation.
Sustainability
ATG was founded on principles of conservation and sustainable development. It was the first company to win the tourism industry’s two top awards: Tourism for Tomorrow (UK) and the World Legacy Award (National Geographic and Conservation International USA) and also the first to have an accredited Environmental Management System.
Everyone who walks with ATG contributes to the ATG Trust, which funds projects that benefit local communities in the regions visited. By supporting these initiatives, ATG promotes sustainable tourism. Past projects have included heritage restoration projects, environmental conservation and educational projects.
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