Ancient Paths to Rome III: Approach to Rome – Independent
Approach to Rome is the third section of ATG’s Ancient Paths to Rome trip. This is a 225-mile independent walking route in three sections, each very different in character, which can be walked in week-long stages of about 70 miles each, or as a full 225-mile walk in three weeks. Sections 1 and 2 are Tuscan Hills and Volcanic Landscapes.
This third stage takes you from the northern edge of Lazio (Latium) down to Rome, through unspoiled ancient landscapes and towns, most of which remain as they were when the Via Francigena developed. The final approach into Rome is unavoidably urban, in marked contrast to the preceding sections of the route. However, the endpoint must be Rome (!) and the city provides a very different adventure in itself.
There are wonderful carpets of cyclamen in the spring and autumn in the woods, plus good wildflowers in spring. Birds are many and varied and best spotted in the springtime. Summer and early autumn is a great time for swimming in Lake Vico.
Duration: 8 days
Itinerary
(Approach to Rome is Section 3 of '225 Miles to Rome', following the ancient Via Francigena. Sections 1 and 2 are 'Tuscan Hills' and 'Ancient Volcanic Landscapes'). Free day in Viterbo, with its fine churches, papal palace and medieval quarter. Optional walk to the Villa Lante gardens (5.2 miles, 2.5 hours). Stay in a central, 4-star hotel.
Something of a rival to Rome during the 13th century, this medieval town houses several grand palaces and churches. Our optional city walk gives you a flavour for most parts of the city and places of interest, finishing at the archaeological museum, exhibiting fine Roman pottery and Etruscan artefacts. There are a number of good restaurants here offering modern fare and traditional specialties.
Boutique hotel in central location
Paths through oak and chestnut forest lead to a ridge, then down to an ancient crater and Lake Vico, with its secondary cone, Monte Venere, surmounted by a small temple to Venus. Continue through hazel groves to Lake Vico, from where tracks lead to a river flowing from the lake, which powers over 20 water mills, en route to the picturesque ancient citadel of Ronciglione (13 miles, 7 hours). Stay in a family-run ‘retreat’ in the historic centre.
Magnificently located over a small ravine, this picturesque town has a pretty hilltop medieval quarter protected on three sides by the gorge.
Family-run ‘retreat’ in historic centre
Time to explore the lively medieval quarter. Lanes then lead through hazelnut groves to the ancient walled town of Sutri, birthplace of Pontius Pilate, with its atmospheric amphitheatre, frescoed church of the Madonna del Parto, and Etruscan sites (6 miles, 3 hours). Friendly, family-run B&B near the town centre.
This town is situated on a narrow tufa hill. It dates back to the Bronze Age and has both Etruscan and Roman heritage. The tufa rock here can be easily cut enabling the inhabitants to create caves, tombs, cellars and stables within the rock. The remarkable Roman amphitheatre here was cut entirely from the hillside while the Etruscan tombs nearby were also cut from tufa rock, used for both burials and cremations.
Friendly, family-run B&B near town centre
Follow tracks across low hills, with farmland and woods, before walking up to the gates of the walled town of Campagnano di Roma (16.1 miles, 8 hours). Central 3-star hotel with traditional restaurant.
Surrounded by hills, forests and small lakes, this charming medieval town is a delight to explore, with winding streets, bell towers, beautiful churches and palaces. The local specialities include artichokes and wine – both a feature in their annual ‘Festa del Baccanale’ (see list of local festivals).
Simple, centrally located hotel with restaurant serving traditional Italian food
Quiet lanes and farm tracks lead via an isolated pilgrim church to the necropolis of Etruscan Veio, then, still in unspoilt country, to the hilltop village of Isola Farnese, and on to La Giustiniana (15.6 miles, 8 hours). Stay in a peaceful 3-star hotel in a residential area.
A peaceful, residential suburb, close to the city of Rome yet, at the same time, far from its bustle. The Parco dei Veio is close by, which incorporates some notable Etruscan sites, the medieval settlement of Isola Farnese as well as some lovely walks and views.
Peaceful, family run former farmhouse with garden
Follow the Via Cassia before passing through the nature reserves of Insugherata and Monte Mario for your first magnificent views over Rome. Then follow the Viale Angelico to reach the walls of the Vatican, and on to St. Peter’s Square. Stay at a very well-situated hotel in the centre of the old city (13.5 miles, 6 hours + sightseeing). Well located 4-star hotel with rooftop terrace and bar.
More people have walked to Rome than any other city in the Western world. As capital of the Roman Empire, it was the ‘centre of the world,’ a compelling attraction for travellers. In the year 1000AD, hordes from every part of Europe converged on the Eternal City to celebrate the millennium – as they did in 2000AD! It remains a key destination for pilgrimage and to view the wonders of ancient Rome.
Stylish hotel in excellent location, with roof-top terrace bar
Opportunities to visit the great monuments that recall successive centuries of the Roman Empire, as well as extensive art and architecture from medieval times onwards.
Stylish hotel in excellent location, with roof-top terrace bar
Trip Planner
Walking & Terrain
Walking: Moderate. Walk lengths vary from 2.5 hours (optional walk on Day 1) to a maximum of 8 hours of walking. Hours of walking, which may vary from individual to means hours of actual walking and does not include stops for lunch, sightseeing, rests or siestas. The walking is reasonably demanding as there are no rest days built into the itinerary.
Terrain: Etruscan and Roman roads, mule paths, wooded trails, cart tracks, some tarmac and dirt roads. Terrain may be more rugged at times so please make sure that your footwear provides sufficient ankle support. There are no vertiginous walks.
Approach to Rome is the third section of ATG's Ancient Paths to Rome making up a total of 225 Miles. If you plan to walk all three sections (including Tuscan Hills and Volcanic Landscapes) we would rate the walking as challenging due to the sheer volume of walking and we would recommend rest sections between each weeklong itinerary.
All ATG trips include facilities and options so that you can arrange to walk as much or as little as you like – or not at all - and your Route Manager will be able to advise you on public transport or taxi options.
Walking & Terrain
Walking: Moderate. Walk lengths vary from 2.5 hours (optional walk on Day 1) to a maximum of 8 hours of walking. Hours of walking, which may vary from individual to means hours of actual walking and does not include stops for lunch, sightseeing, rests or siestas. The walking is reasonably demanding as there are no rest days built into the itinerary.
Terrain: Etruscan and Roman roads, mule paths, wooded trails, cart tracks, some tarmac and dirt roads. Terrain may be more rugged at times so please make sure that your footwear provides sufficient ankle support. There are no vertiginous walks.
Approach to Rome is the third section of ATG's Ancient Paths to Rome making up a total of 225 Miles. If you plan to walk all three sections (including Tuscan Hills and Volcanic Landscapes) we would rate the walking as challenging due to the sheer volume of walking and we would recommend rest sections between each weeklong itinerary.
All ATG trips include facilities and options so that you can arrange to walk as much or as little as you like – or not at all - and your Route Manager will be able to advise you on public transport or taxi options.
Additional activities available locally
This is a wonderful area offering additional local experiences - some can be booked to fit in with the itinerary, whilst for others you may wish to customise your trip to have an extra leisurely day or two to enjoy.
Additional activities are paid for locally and can be booked via your Route Manager who will contact you 2 weeks prior to departure with the exception of the thermal baths in Viterbo which should be booked in advance via the ATG office.
Thermal baths in Viterbo up to 25€/person with the option to book additional spa treatments
Italian lessons in Viterbo, costing from 20€/person depending on the length of the lesson.
Palazzo Farnese visit - walk from Ronciglione to visit to Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola. The Villa Farnese (also known as Caprarola), is an elegant palazzo with a beautiful Italian garden. Entrance fee 10€/person
Your Personal ATG Route Manager
I am originally from the Czech Republic, but for over 20 years I have called the hills and countryside near Viterbo my home. Come follow ancient Etruscan paths that wind through soft volcanic landscapes, past shimmering crater lakes and medieval villages perched on tufa cliffs. Visit mysterious necropolises carved into stone and pass through quiet forests and hidden corners away from crowds. I look forward to meeting you and sharing my love of this area with you!
"Lucie was wonderful in every respect. The route managers are a really important part of this holiday and Lucie is the best so far. She couldn't do enough to help us and was really helpful and knowledgeable."
Route Book
The ATG Route Book is a detailed, day-to-day guide. The book anticipates your needs with easy-to-follow instructions, maps, plans and other information that will guide you to discover the best that the area has to offer and is the key to the success of an independent holiday with us.
Walking App
Your Route Manager can provide you with a link to download an app to your smartphone. This app provides the GPS track for your route on your phone. You can use this digital support to find your position and navigate the route, even without an internet connection or mobile phone reception.
Accommodation & Meals
You can expect each hotel to be one of the most characteristic, comfortable and best located for travellers on foot, with the character and sometimes the standard varying from place to place. In more remote areas hotels may be of a generally lower standard in relation to their ‘star ratings’.
Single travellers are accommodated in double rooms for single occupancy for a supplemental charge.
Breakfast is included and there are suggestions in the Route Book about where to buy provisions for a picnic lunch, as well as restaurant recommendations. Dining options often include a choice of restaurants that can be pre-booked for you by your Route Manager.
Food & Wine
Lazio’s cuisine is strong, vigorous and hearty. Lots of oil and garlic-flavoured meat and game combinations. Grilled meat – lots of it, and large cuts – features heavily on menus. Vegetarians take heart: there are plenty of interesting vegetable dishes, many of them enhanced by herbs and spices. Pasta dishes can be quite spicy – if you want something ‘calm’ go for a creamy dish or some gnocchi. As you walk past the volcanic lakes the menus teem with freshwater fish including corregone (whitefish), trout and eels. The area north of Rome is not a commercial wine production area. We suggest you ‘relive’ the earlier parts of the route with the likes of Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Chianti (Classico and Colli Senesi), Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Brunello di Montalcino, ‘Est! Est!! Est!!!’ from Montefiascone and Orvieto Classico. Our Route Book contains a section on the cuisine and wines of the region, and a list of recommended restaurants en route. The Route Manager will be pleased to help you with any queries, requests or advice.
History
This final section of the 225-mile Ancient Paths to Rome trip from Viterbo to Rome leaves behind the lands dominated by the Etruscans to reach an area shaped by the Romans themselves and subsequently the activities of the Popes and their conflicts with the Holy Roman Emperor. The Romans would have built the Via Cassia as part of their campaign to spread into Etruscan territories, marching out to war in the opposite direction from the way you will walk. In the Middle Ages, the Via Cassia became an important trading route as wealth from trades such as banking and wool increased. The road was also a vital link for pilgrims travelling to Rome and other religious sites. The Route Book provides a detailed account of the history of the region.
Flora & Fauna
The thickly forested volcanic hills of the Monti Cimini abound with wildlife including deer, wild boar, porcupines and numerous birds. Nightingales, golden orioles and boldly crested hoopoes are among some of the birds you may spot. After the hills the landscape gives way to open volcanic plateaux and valleys that are mostly farmed. Characteristic of the countryside here are the umbrella pines, lining tracks or clustered around farmsteads. Particularly beautiful are the fireflies that light up the night from May to Late June. Our Route Book provides further detail while apps such as ‘LeafSnap’, ‘Flora Incognita’, ‘ChirpOMatic’ and child-friendly ‘Seek by iNaturalist’ can identify the flora and fauna en route.
Travel Arrangements
Travel arrangements, including flights, for ATG Independent Footloose trips should be made independently.
Outward travel to Viterbo: From Rome Fiumicino airport, take the metro to Roma Ostiense station. There are regular trains from here to Viterbo. If you are flying into Ciampino airport, catch the shuttle bus to Roma Termini station. From here there are very frequent rail services to Viterbo, usually via Roma Ostiense.
Return travel from Rome: From Roma Termini station, there are regular trains (Leonardo Express) to Fiumicino airport. There are also regular bus services from Roma Termini to Ciampino airport.
Trip Options & Prices
Overview
This 8 day independent walking tour in Italy takes you from medieval Viterbo in northern Lazio and includes 5 days of walking through unspoilt ancient landscapes to reach Rome. There is also the option of a walk to the gardens at Villa Lante on your arrival day for those arriving early. A dedicated walking holiday for keen walkers and, if you’ve already walked the first two sections of ATG’s 225 Miles to Rome, you’ll be completing a truly monumental walk!
Itinerary
Day 1: Arrive in Viterbo
Day 2: Viterbo to Ronciglione
Day 3: Ronciglione to Sutri
Day 4: Sutri to Campagnano di Roma
Day 5: Campagnano di Roma to La Giustiniana
Day 6: La Giustiniana to Rome
Day 7: Rome - free day
Day 8: Departure
Prices (per person)
Our Independent Footloose itineraries have the flexibility to be customised if you would like to spend more time in any of the places en route; perhaps to incorporate some of the add-ons available locally or just to create a more relaxed pace to your holiday.
If you wish to build your own itinerary please complete our customise form and our Sales team will provide you with a bespoke quote.
Frequently Asked Questions
On each route there is an ATG Route Manager, who is there to take care of all the practicalities and ensure the success of your trip. Route Managers have all been ATG-trained, speak English and the language of the country fluently, and live in the local area. Your Route Manager will make contact with you a couple of weeks prior to departure (usually by email) and will then meet you at the start of your trip and will be available during your trip to move your luggage from hotel to hotel, provide local information, make restaurant reservations and do everything possible to ensure that you derive maximum enjoyment from your holiday.
Please let us know about any dietary restrictions or allergies in advance so that our Route Manager can ensure that you are catered for during your holiday. Most dietary restrictions do not present a problem on our trips and the Route Manager can discuss your requirements in more detail with you at the start of your trip.
The walks are graded according to difficulty but you can walk as much or as little as you like.
Easy: walking along well-established paths and tracks with some short ascents/descents. These trips are suitable for most people who enjoy occasional exercise.
Easy to Moderate: walking along well-established paths and tracks. Occasional loose (gravel) surfaces. Ascents/descents up to 1 hour. These trips are suitable for most people who have a reasonable level of fitness.
Moderate: walking along a variety of paths and tracks. Occasional uneven areas. Ascents/descents 1-2 hours. These trips are suitable for those who have a reasonable to good level of fitness.
Moderate to Challenging: walking along varied paths and surfaces, occasionally challenging, with ascents/descents of 2-3 hours. These trips are suitable for more experienced walkers who have a good level of fitness.
If you are planning to take an Independent trip as a single traveller, we would ask you to consider the potential dangers of walking alone before making a booking and if necessary discuss this with our Sales team.
Single travellers will be booked into a double room which will carry a single occupancy supplement.
Flights are not included in the price of your ATG holiday and should be booked independently.
The trips in our Independent programme make ideal family holidays for those with children who are old enough (and keen enough!) to enjoy a walking holiday or young enough to be carried in a backpack.
You would need to consider costs for lunches (either a picnic style lunch or lunch in a café as you prefer) and evening meals. Where an evening meal is included at a hotel this is indicated on the trip page. For evening meals not included, the route book provides restaurant recommendations to suit a wide range of budgets. You would also need to factor in any entrance fees to museums, churches, galleries and other sightseeing costs, items of a personal nature, shopping expenditure and transport if you choose to not to walk on some days.
Tourist Tax
This tax is charged per guest per night and the rate is determined by the local council based on the star rating of the accommodation. The rate usually varies from €2 up to €5 per person per night, although the rate can be higher in major cities. This tax is not included in the price of your holiday but where applicable will be payable direct to your hotel in cash.
We are delighted to book extensions for you at either end of your trip. We only book hotels with which we have an established relationship and where we can ensure a high level of service and enjoyment. If you would like an extension hotel booking please indicate this during the booking process and we will contact you with pricing information.
ATG does not provide any form of insurance cover. However, it is a condition of booking that you have fully comprehensive insurance cover, including:
Cancellation/curtailment up to the cost of the holiday (preferably including flights)
Medical emergencies and repatriation
Travel delay / missed departure
Lost or stolen personal belongings
Personal liability
Legal expenses
Natural Disasters
Although most credit card companies offer travel insurance as something that is included when paying the balance with the card, it may be advisable to check that the cover offered is what you expect it to be. Very few companies include cancellation and curtailment or medical expenses. Whatever the insurance policy you have taken out, please read the documentation carefully. Please ensure also that you take it with you on your trip and refer to it in the case of any claim or emergency.
Yes, please click here for what to bring. A packing checklist is also included with your booking confirmation.
Sustainability
ATG was founded on principles of conservation and sustainable development. It was the first company to win the tourism industry’s two top awards: Tourism for Tomorrow (UK) and the World Legacy Award (National Geographic and Conservation International USA) and also the first to have an accredited Environmental Management System.
Everyone who walks with ATG contributes to the ATG Trust, which funds projects that benefit local communities in the regions visited. By supporting these initiatives, ATG promotes sustainable tourism. Past projects have included heritage restoration projects, environmental conservation and educational projects.
Other trips you may be interested in
